2012 Survival Kit

If you trying to assemble a small 2012 survival kit, good luck. Your 2012 survival kit is going to be more like a 2012 survival list. Your 2012 survival list needs to be comprehensive and cover all areas of concern - food, water, shelter, clothing, transportation and any miscellaneous items you feel are necessary.

2012 Survival Concern #1 - Food

You need food to last you for about a year. Yes a year. And this is only food for yourself, if you are with family each person needs enough food to last them a year. Dried vegetables, meats, fruits, nuts, and seeds are a necessity. You also need food seeds to start a garden if the soil permits it. Carrots, celery, cabbage, eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, etc. Are all necessary. If you want to think longer term get seeds for fruit trees.

Hunting equipment will also be necessary here. I wouldn't recommend getting fishing gear, as most of the water will most likely be too polluted to eat from for a while. Gear for trapping small to large animals is essential.

Basic kitchen utensils, storage containers, pots and pans are also needed.

2012 Survival Concern #2 - Water

You must have a portable water purification system with many many filters. Clear water will be scare.

2012 Survival Concern #3 - Shelter

This is course depends on where you are. A high quality tent and a sleeping bag are excellent ideas as you will most likely be moving around a lot.

2012 Survival Concern #4 - Clothing

Depending on where you are, you may need a winter jacket, lots of sweaters, waterproof gear, high water boots, gloves, etc.

2012 Survival Concern #5 - Transportation

Again depending on where you are, your transportation needs will change. You may want a mountain bike, skis, a ATV, etc. Make sure you get plenty of fuel if you are planning to transport with anything that requires fuel.

Most people will want a unsinkable boat though regardless of where they are because of the high water levels.

2012 Survival Concern #6 - Miscellaneous Items

Miscellaneous items include a first aid kit, water-poof matches, candles, a lantern, flares, walkie talkies, batteries, etc.

The Effect of Caffeine on Plant Growth

The effect of caffeine on plant growth has been studied by the experts for some time now. People believe that exposure to caffeine would cause the plant to grow at a much faster rate and that this is a positive effect for plants. But this is just a myth and make-believe, not to mention, a total waste of perfectly good caffeine. While it does not do anything for the growth speed of the plants, research is still on progress about the real effect of caffeine on plant growth.

There are a lot of theories regarding that subject but nothing in particular seems to be the real deal. All are just theories that lack evidential support and therefore cannot be considered as factual truth about the effect of caffeine on plant growth.

One theory mentioned above says that the caffeine can help in the growth of the plant. The believers of this myth argue that the potassium found in caffeine helps the plant to grow faster. As this theory can be true and that caffeine can possibly help plants grow, there is still no factual evidence that it really was the caffeine that helped the growth and not other elements present. It really is hard to say without eliminating all possibilities.

Another theory is that caffeine's effect on plant growth can make the plants abnormal and retarded. That they make the growth of the plants slow down and also make plants tend to be small in size, abnormally small in size. So again we have a group of people who believe that their theory is the right one. They claim that the caffeine added to the plants stop the plants from growing. There really is no telling whether what they claim is true or not.

There are a lot of elements to consider in finding out the effect of caffeine on plant growth. It would require controlled environment, day and night observation, and total focus to the subject. The weather is also a factor and the environment on which the plant was grown. There are factors and elements to take in consideration first before even attempting experimentation with caffeine and plants.

The effect of caffeine on plant growth is really a hard one to call. It can be that the plants are growing slower because of the caffeine and it also can be a possibility that the potassium and phosphorus can cause the plant to grow much faster.

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Tips on Which Vegetables Freeze Well

To be honest, I would say that you could freeze most vegetables, and most with very good results. I have selected a few to talk about and given you a little more information about them. Broccoli is a good vegetable to freeze but the ones with tender stalks and no flowers on the heads are better. Make sure you wash the broccoli thoroughly and blanch for 3 minutes before cooling in ice cold water for a further 3 minutes. You can pack in plastic containers or freezer packs in the freezer, which ever you prefer. Then freeze.

When choosing asparagus, if you are picking it yourself, be sure to choose round, smooth, tender and medium sized spears with tips that are closed. Make sure you break off any tough ends as far down as you can up to where the stalks can snap with ease. Was the asparagus. If needed, use a vegetable scrubbing brush to remove and sandy or rough particles. Tie the spears into bundles with aluminum foil or string, or you could cut each stalk into 1 inch sized pieces and store in a plastic container or freezer bags. Then freeze.

With peppers first you need to wash them and remover the seeds in the same manner as you normally would. Then you need to slice the peppers into strips. You can tie the strips together in small bundles with aluminum foil or string, or cut the strips into small pieces and store in a plastic container or freezer bags. Then freeze. When freezing cabbage you must first strip off the outer leaves and wash the rest of the cabbage. Cut the cabbage into small thin strip or shed it and blanch for one and a half minutes. Then cool in cold water for the same amount of time. Put the cabbage in a plastic container or freezer bags. Then freeze.

Celery needs to be washed and cut into 1 inch pieces and then blanched for 2 minutes. Then put in cold water for the same amount of time. You can tie the strips together in small bundles with aluminum foil or string, or cut the strips into small pieces and store in a plastic container or freezer bags. Then freeze. Wash tomatoes before removing the stems and cutting into halves or quarters. You could leave them whole if you wish. Dry the tomatoes and pack them into plastic containers or freezer bags. Then freeze.

How to Make Your Own Organic Insecticidal Soap and Keep Your Garden Chemical Free

Many home plant pest problems can be easily solved by using a little insecticidal soap. It is easy and inexpensive to mix up your own organic insect killer at home. You will be saving money on pesticides and won't have to worry about dangerous chemicals on your food.

This recipe works best on soft-bodied pests like aphids, thrips, white flies and spider mites. These are among the most common garden pests. Insecticidal soaps kill insects by entering the pest's respiratory system and breaking down internal cell membranes. It is only effective when it is wet, so aim well. After it is dry it will not harm your beneficial insects. For heavy insect infestations, it is best to spray your plants again in a few days.

Here's a really simple recipe for insecticidal soap.

1 tablespoon of soap

2 cups water

Mix thoroughly and add to spray bottle. Spray directly onto the insects on your plants.

Be sure to check the label on your soap first. The key to this recipe is to use regular dish soap, not detergent or anything anti-bacterial. You can also use pure liquid castile soap.

You can super-charge your organic insecticidal soap to make it stick to hard-bodied pests like fleas. It also damages the protective waxy coating on insects. Add either one tablespoon of mineral oil or a vegetable oil to your mixture. Sunflower or olive oil will work well, any vegetable-based oil will break down faster in your soil. Oil will help the mixture stay on these pests so the soap has a chance to begin working. But it will also stick to your ladybug beetles so be careful where you are aiming.

Some plants (especially ferns) are sensitive to soaps. Do not use a soap mixture on ferns. New growth on plants may be too tender for soap, so apply sparingly art first. Plants under stress may have a bad reaction to any insecticide. Plants that are under stress from drought should be soaked with water the day before you treat them. You should always test your mixture first on just one leaf on your plant. If it is fine the next day, your solution should be OK to use. It is better not to spray your plants in the middle of the day. Full sun (especially on hairy plants) can turn the water droplets into little magnifying glasses which can burn the leaves.

Many garden pests like to hide underneath the leaves of plants. For best results aim upwards and get under that foliage. Aim directly at those bugs. You may need to spray your organic pesticide again in a few days if you have a heavy infestation of pests.

Making your own insecticidal soap is a great way to save money on your landscaping budget and keep your vegetable garden organic at the same time.

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This Year's Vegetable Garden Can Be Your BEST EVER Using These Quick and Easy Tips!

Common household items you have around the house can come in handy for your vegetable garden, plus they can also save you hours of time and money!

Paper cups can serve two purposes as seedling pots and cutworm collars.

Some seeds are better started indoors or in small pots. To make the seedling pots, buy ordinary unwaxed paper cups. Use scissors, an ice pick or a knife to poke a few drainage holes in the bottom of each cup. Fill the cups with seed-starting mix. Add enough water to make it moist, and then sow your seeds. Easy, cheap, and recyclable.

When your seedling is ready for the outdoor world, transform the paper cup into cutworm collars at transplanting time. Merely use scissors and carefully cut up one side of the cup starting from the bottom. Stop the cut about 2 inches from the top. From that point, cut around the cup, leaving a 2-inch ring, which will act as the collar. Toss the bottom part of the cup. Make sure you are careful not to disturb the seedling's root system. Now carefully leave the collar intact when you plant the seedling.

Shredded paper serves as excellent mulch for tomatoes and pepper plants. Just take shredded paper and spread a 2" layer around the plants. Saturate the paper with water to keep it in place and to moisten the soil. The paper is biodegradable and you can must turn it into the soil at the end of the growing season.

Black plastic has been used by commercial farmers for decades as mulch and to warm the soil. Now home gardeners are catching on! This is especially useful for warm season crops including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and melons.

On a calm day, moisten the soil and lay the black plastic in a single layer on the garden plot. Keep the plastic in place by covering the edges with soil or rocks. Cut hole where you will place your transplants.

You can also use this method on established gardens by cutting a large x in the place where your plant with "pop through." Be careful as you lay the plastic.

Remember to discard the plastic after each use as it starts to decompose.

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Easy Steps on How to Freeze Okra

Freezing up okra is not as easy as washing it and putting in the ref. There is a proper way to freeze okras. There are proper steps on freezing okra so it will not rot easily. You could enjoy okras for up to eight months in the common freezer if you do it properly. Frozen okras can also last up to more than ten months if you put them inside a deep freezer. The materials you will need to freeze okras are the following:

1. pods of okras
2. strainer
3. sharp knives
4. pot with a lid
5. ice
6. zip lock bags

Procedure:

1. The first step on how to freeze okra is to choose the fresh okra. You will know that it is fresh if it is still green and tender. Choose the okra without punctures. Make sure it doesn't have any brown spots as well.

2. The second step on freezing okra is to put it in the strainer while rinsing it with water that should be lukewarm. The next step is separating the smaller pods and the bigger pods. The small pods are smaller than four inches and the bigger pods are those that have a length of more than four inches.

3. The third step on how to freeze okra is cutting its stems at the tip by using the knife. Do this step with the smaller pods only. Make sure that you do not cut the cells of the seeds.

4. The fourth step on how to freeze okra is filling the two thirds part of the pot with water. Make it boil and prepare a bowl full of ice as soon as the water starts to boil.

5. The fifth step on how to freeze okra is putting the smaller pods in the saucepan or pot so it will boil. Let it boil for three minutes only. This is how you blanch the okras. Prepare the bigger pods for boiling. Boil them for three minutes then put them straight in the water with ice and let them cool for more than four minutes. You can put more cubes of ice if it is needed so the water will be colder.

6. The last step in freezing okras is putting the okras in the strainer so the water will drain. Put them in the zip lock bags, making sure that the bag has no air at all. Place them inside the ref's freezer.

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Reasons Why We Need to Cultivate the Soil

Once your plants are an inch or two high you will have another decision to make. Even the best garden soil tends to form a crust after a hard rain has beaten the air out of it and a hot sun has baked it. That crust makes it hard for the soil to drink up the next rainfall, and often forces much of that rain to run off uselessly to lower ground. To prevent this, gardeners cultivate the soil with a hoe. A "dust mulch" results, which diminishes loss of water by evaporation. There is, of course, a second important reason for cultivating the soil: to eliminate weeds.

There is a magnificent substitute for cultivating a garden. This substitute is mulching, spreading some sort of cover over the soil between the rows. The ideal material ought to be cheap and composed of a vegetable matter so that it will eventually be incorporated into the soil itself. Fortunately, there are many such products. Peanut hulls, buckwheat hulls, peat, straw are all sold for this purpose. Fallen leaves are good. Spoiled hay is excellent, although there is a risk of its containing mature weed seeds. Grass clippings are excellent, provided they contain no seed.

If rainfall is generous, you need not bother about your vegetables getting enough to drink. But if the ground begins to get dry it is time to use your hose. Better than any spray is a "soil soaker" hose to attach to your regular garden hose. You want to get your soil moist nine or ten inches deep. Then do no more watering for at least a week.

When it comes time to harvest your vegetables remember most vegetables contain more flavor and more complete nourishment when young than when fully mature. You and the cook are now in collaboration. Confer together. She has a natural interest in composing a table symphony, and this may lead her to want a combination of vegetables that your garden does not at that moment afford.

If you are, or become, an enthusiastic gardener, your vegetable garden will be a place you will often steal time to visit. Whether it is on a wide lot or just a small yard garden it ought to be a beautiful place. In general, a well-planned vegetable garden, healthy and productive, develops a distinctive beauty that reflects its function.

We moderns are inclined to make a sharp distinction between the things we have for beauty, such as flower gardens, and the things we have for utility, such as vegetable gardens. All this suggests that you may wish to grow a few rows of cutting flowers among your vegetables. They not only add beauty but can follow your vegetables to the table, to delight your eye while the vegetables delight your palate.

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How to Make an Indoor Vegetable Garden

Indoor gardening is the way to go if you want to grow your own vegetables but you have very limited space. This type of gardening is perfect if you live in a city apartment or a small lot. Either way, building an indoor vegetable garden will require you to pay attention to certain conditions or factors inside your place.

It is important to study the normal temperature, air circulation, moisture and the amount of sunlight that gets inside your home. All these factors should match the ideal conditions needed by the type of vegetables you want to grow. If not, you should be ready to add (or remove) certain elements that will make the indoor environment more suitable to the vegetables you choose.

As a rule, you have to choose veggies that are in season. Create an indoor gardening schedule as if you were planting outside. The size of your home also plays an important role in planning your indoor garden. But no matter how big or small your area is, indoor gardening is guaranteed to be fun and, well, fruitful. Here's how to start off your project.

Prepare the containers

Indoor vegetable gardening is mainly done in containers. Any pot or plastic container will do. To save costs, you can always recycle milk jugs and cookie canisters. If you want, you can invest in ceramic containers to make your garden look more coordinated and dazzling. For the drainage, use nails or an ice pick to make holes on the bottom of the containers.

Mix the soil

There are many recipes on how to mix good soil. But generally, combining equal parts of perlite, forest mulch, sand, and compost should be perfect for an indoor garden. Get some of these materials for free from a nearby construction site or make things easier by visiting your nearest gardening supply store or a Saturday farmers' market. After mixing the soil, fill it into the containers.

Voila! You're ready for planting. And in a few weeks, you'll be ready to harvest

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The Dwarf Sugar Grey snow pea is a snow pea with edible pods and great flavor. The shorter vines grow up to 2.5 feet long and resistant to Common Wilt. The delicious Dwarf Sugar Grey pods are light-green and very fat and fleshy.